Seeing Kotor for the first time takes your breath away. Arriving by the coastal highway you wiggle and wind your way around relentless curving roads tracing the edge of a sprawling inlet at the base of sheer limestone cliffs. The…
Day 49 – Dubrovnik, Croatia – A formidable walled city on the sea.
Our first full day in Dubrovnik was the memorial of the people fallen in the recent war. Outside the door to our restaurant, I watched a steady stream of children filing from the church, each with a red lantern in…
Day 45 – Korĉula, Croatia (off season) – The tiny island fortress city.
Korĉula was a charming little hideaway, frozen in time, and relatively unscathed by the wars of the last century that destroyed so many other Croatian coastal towns. Surrounded by mountains and sea it feels like you’re in a different world…
Day 41 – Hvar, Croatia – Riding out a once in 3 year storm during a 50 year high tide.
So . . . our time in Hvar was primarily surviving a massive storm during a tide that hasn’t been this high in 50 years. The news is abuzz about Venice being under water but that’s not far away and…
What and how to pack for long term / extended international travel. (like vagabonding)
I’ve been looking for an article like this for a long time but haven’t really stumbled across one. Packing for a vacation is pretty straightforward. You know your climate and generally you’re only going to be gone for 2-3…
Day 37 – Bol on the island of Brač, Croatia – Sitting on an empty Zlatni Rat listening to Kokomo.
I can’t help but feel like a carnival attraction walking around Bol. The season is closed. We are alone amongst locals. As I walk down the empty town streets I am watched from the few bars left open. Construction workers…
Day 33 – Zadar, Croatia – The city that refuses to die.
We didn’t plan to visit Zadar. It was the closest city to Paklenica National Park that Katy wanted to hike and it seemed like a better alternative to the seasonal climber village outside the park where I would be trapped…
Day 29 – Plitvička Jezera, Croatia – Wandering around a magical cloud.
Plitvice Lakes is the living embodiment of a water spirit, crystal waters tinged with chartreuse and aquamarine, the forest deadfall a ghostly mineral white texturing the haunting depths of the valley lakes as they rush, one to the next, down…
Day 28 – Brijuni Island, Croatia – Touring the playground of a benevolent dictator.
Zipping through the personal summer playground of a dictator, down tiny paved lanes past once splendid and palatial remnants slowly falling into disrepair, a glimpse into a different time. Cruising with cartoonish map in hand, we visit the expansive roman…
Day 26 – Day trip – Pula, Croatia
Even though the airport is in Pula, instead of staying in Pula we decided to set up home base in Rovinj and day trip there. There’s a bus station in the middle of Rovinj with nearly hourly buses to there…